Crochet Baby Bonnet Pattern, Sizes 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, 1-2 years, 3-5 years
The Cotswold Bonnet is really easy and super quick to make. It’s cozy and thick because it uses Aran (number 4) yarn. The bonnet is made from a flat rectangle and then the back is sewn together. Next, a sc ribbing is added around the bottom and front of the bonnet. Lastly, two straps are stitched to either side.
Make The Matching Cotswold Sweater
The Cotswold Sweater is the perfect cozy pullover for chilly days. It reminds me of something a shepherd or shepherdess might wear here in the Cotswolds while tending to their sheep. The stitch pattern used in the design is the lemon peel stitch. If you are not familiar with it, you are in for a treat. It is so easy and looks incredible using only single and double crochet stitches. The sweater is worked from the top down, starting with the collar. The sleeves are stitched directly onto the finished body of the sweater which means no seaming. The timeless style and gender neutral design make this sweater one you will want to make over and over again. I have designed the sweater to be oversized so keep this in mind when picking the size you want to make. Lulu is 10 months and wearing size 1-2. Get your copy now at shopthemoulehole.com.
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The Pattern
US Terms
Materials
*5.00mm (U.S. H/8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
*I used Hayfield Bonus Aran with Wool in the colour Light Natural (936) (400g, 840m, 919yds). If you purchase from this link, I will earn a small commission and can continue creating my patterns. Your support means the world to me! See chart below for approximately how much yarn you will need.
*stitch markers
*tapestry needle
Stitches and Abbreviations
BLO- back loop only
ch- chain stitch
dc- double crochet
hdc2tog- half double crochet two stitches together
hdc- half double crochet
hdc/ch1/hdc- half double crochet, chain one, half double crochet in the next stitch or in the chain space
In- Increase
PSM- place stitch marker
RSM- remove stitch marker
sc- single crochet
sk- skip
sl st- slip stitch
sp- space
st or sts- stitch or stitches
RS- right side
WS- wrong side
Gauge
14 stitches/12 rows= 10cmX10cm (4X4 inch) in alternating dc & sc
Gauge Swatch: 10cmX10cm (4X4 inch)
ch 16
Row A: dc in the 3rd ch from hook, sc in the next st, alterate dc & sc to the end of the row [14sts]
Row B: ch1, alternate dc & sc across the row, turn [14sts]
Repeat row B until you reach 12 rows.
HINT you will always place dc into the sc from the previous row and a sc in the dc from the previous row.
Sizes are written in the following order 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12months, 1-2 years, 3-5 years
| Bonnet Body | ||||||
| Before you begin, cut a long piece of yarn. You will need this to sew the back of the bonnet when you have completed the body. | ||||||
| Ch | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 | 26 | |
| Row 1 (RS) | ||||||
| sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, alternate dc & sc to the end of the row, turn | 17 | 19 | 21 | 23 | 25 | |
| Row 2 (WS) | ||||||
| ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in the first st, alternate sc & dc to the end of the row, turn | ||||||
| Total Stitches | 17 | 19 | 21 | 23 | 25 | sts |
| Row 3 (RS) | ||||||
| ch1, sc in the first st, alternate dc & sc to the end of the row, turn | ||||||
| Total Stitches | 17 | 19 | 21 | 23 | 25 | sts |
| Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your bonnet measures | 30.5 | 33 | 35.5 | 38 | 40.5 | cm |
| or your desired length. | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | in |
| End on a Row 3, RS row, turn. Do not break yarn. | ||||||
| Using the yarn that you cut at the beginning, sew the back of the bonnet up using a mattress stitch or your preferred method. | ||||||
| Decrease of Bonnet Neck | ||||||
| We will now be working along the bottom of the bonnet on the WS. | ||||||
| Row 1 (WS) | ||||||
| ch1, hdc in the first st, *hdc2tog, hdc in the next st, repeat from * across the bottom of the bonnet, hdc in any leftover sts if it does not work out evenly, turn | ||||||
| *Note* There will be 2 stitches for every 3 stitches of the previous row. By decreasing the number of stitches, the bottom of the bonnet will be shaped nicely around the neck. | ||||||
| Bottom Ribbing- worked on the RS of the bottom of the bonnet | ||||||
| Row 1 | ||||||
| ch 4, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch, sl st in the next 2 sts, turn | ||||||
| Row 2 | ||||||
| do not ch, sk the 2 sl sts, sc in the BLO up the ribbing, turn | ||||||
| Row 3 | ||||||
| ch1, sc in the BLO down the ribbing, sl st in the next 2 sts, turn | ||||||
| Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until you have reach the end of the bottom of bonnet, make sure you end on a Row 2 |
| Front Ribbing | ||||||
| Rotate the bonnet so you are now working along the front. (see pic above) | ||||||
| Row 1 | ||||||
| ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch down (5sts), sl st in the next 2 sts, turn | ||||||
| Row 2 | ||||||
| do not ch, sk the 2 sl sts, sc in the BLO up the ribbing, turn | ||||||
| Row 3: | ||||||
| ch1, sc in the BLO down the ribbing, sl st to the next st, sl st into the next st, turn | ||||||
| Repeat Row 2 and 3 until you have completed the front ribbing on the bonnet, do not break yarn, continue to the straps. |
| Straps | ||||||
| ch | 35 | 40 | 45 | 50 | 55 | |
| sts for the strap, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch up the strap, break yarn | ||||||
| Total sts | 34 | 39 | 44 | 49 | 54 | sts |
| Join yarn to the other corner of the bonnet to make the other strap. | ||||||
| ch | 35 | 40 | 45 | 50 | 55 | |
| sts for the strap, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch up the strap, break yarn | ||||||
| Total sts | 34 | 39 | 44 | 49 | 54 | sts |
| Finishing |
| *weave in all ends |
| * sew strap securely onto the edge of the bonnet (see pic above) |
| *go directly to Facebook or Instagram to share pictures of your Cotswold Bonnet. I love to see them! Tag me in your photo and use the hashtag #tmhcotswoldbonnet |
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