Free Crochet Baby Pixie Bonnet – Fleur Bonnet

Flower Power!!!
The Fleur Bonnet is so easy and fun to make. Designed from a rectangle, the flower stitch motif made from bobbles will bring a smile to your face. Using only simple stitches (single crochet, half double crochet, bobble and double crochet), this bonnet is definitely suitable for a beginner. Due to the fact that it uses Aran (Number 4) yarn, it works up so quickly! I used an acrylic yarn but it would also work in cotton for warmer months.

The Matching Fleur Dress





After finishing your beautiful Fleur Bonnet, the next step is to make the matching dress. The Fleur Dress works up quickly and is available in sizes from 0–6 months all the way up to 10 years. This makes it a versatile pattern that grows with your little one.
To begin, the yoke is worked as a raglan from the top down. It uses a combination of half double crochet and bobble stitches, and the bobble flower details around the yoke add a touch of whimsy and charm. As a result, the Fleur Dress has the same playful feel as the bonnet while still being practical and easy to wear.
Next comes the skirt. Here, the stitch pattern shifts to the lemon peel stitch — a simple yet beautiful texture created by alternating single and double crochets. In each row, you will place a single crochet into every double crochet from the row below, and a double crochet into every single crochet. This alternating rhythm keeps the stitching interesting while producing a lovely, balanced fabric.
After the yoke and skirt are complete, attention turns to the sleeves. At this stage, a delicate two-row ruffle is added to each sleeve, giving the dress an extra layer of detail. Finally, some simple stitch detailing is worked around the collar and back of the dress to tie the whole piece together.
To complete the project, all that’s left is to sew on a single button. With that last step, your Fleur Dress is ready — a sweet, timeless garment that pairs perfectly with the Fleur Bonnet.
Pattern Testing Photos







Look at these beautiful rainbow of colours that my wonderful pattern testers chose for their Fleur Bonnets! I am always blown away by the talent of these incredible makers. If you would like to become part of my pattern testing community, you can join my facebook group “The Moule Hole Pattern Testing”.
The Pattern

US Terms
Materials
- 5.0mm (U.S H/8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
*Worsted/Aran Yarn. I used Brava Worsted Yarn from We Crochet in the colour Wine (28456) kindly gifted to me by We Crochet, I also used some green aran yarn from my stash. If you purchase from this link, I will earn a small commission and can continue creating my patterns. Your support means the world to me! See chart below for approximately how much yarn you will need.
Gauge
15 sts/12 rows= 10cmX10cm (4X4 inch) in hdc
Stitches & Abbreviations
bo- bobble stitch
ch- chain stitch
dc- double crochet
dc2tog- double crochet two stitches together
hdc- half double crochet
RS- right side
sc- single crochet
sp- space
st or sts- stitch or stitches
WS- wrong side


Special Stitch
Bobble Stitch:
yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, repeat from *four more times (There will be six loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through 5 loops. Yarn over, pull through last two loops. See the video tutorial.
Changing Colours in the Flower Motif
I changed colour for the middle bobble of each flower motif. Here is a video on how you can do so.
Sizes are written in the following order: Newborn 0-6months 6-12months 1-2 years 3-5 years
Bonnet Body
Before you begin, cut a long piece of yarn. You will need this to sew the back of the bonnet when you have completed the body.
Ch 19, 21, 23, 25, 27
First Row (WS)
Hdc in the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn.
Stitch count: 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Second Row (RS)
Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in each stitch across, turn.
Total Stitches
17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Repeat “Second Row”
0, 2, 0, 2, 0 times
Flower Motif
Row 1 (WS)
Ch 1, hdc in the next 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 sts.
Bo/hdc/bo over the next 3, 3, 3, 3, 3 sts.
Hdc in the next 2, 2, 2, 2, 2 sts, turn.
Total stitches: 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Row 2 (RS)
Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.
Total stitches: 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Row 3 (WS)
Ch 1, hdc in the next 11, 13, 15, 17, 19 sts.
Bo/hdc/bo/hdc/bo over the next 5, 5, 5, 5, 5 sts
(you may want to change colour for the middle bo – see video in pattern notes).
Hdc in the next 1, 1, 1, 1, 1 st.
Total stitches: 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Row 4 (RS)
Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.
Total stitches: 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Row 5 (WS)
Ch 1, hdc in the next 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 sts.
Bo/hdc/bo over the next 3, 3, 3, 3, 3 sts.
Hdc in the next 2, 2, 2, 2, 2 sts, turn.
Total stitches: 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
Rows 6–8
Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.
Tip: Make sure there are 3 rows of hdc sts between each flower motif.
Repeat Flower Motif 2, 2, 3, 3, 4 more times.
Final Flower Motif
Begin last Flower Motif, working rows 1–5 only.
Row 6
Ch 1, hdc in each st across.
Repeat Row 6 → 1, 3, 1, 3, 1 more time(s).
You will have a total of 4, 4, 5, 5, 6 flowers.
The bonnet should start and end with 2, 4, 2, 4, 2 rows of hdc.
Do not break yarn. Using the long piece of yarn you cut at the beginning and a tapestry needle, sew the back of the bonnet together on the WS. I used a mattress stitch.

Bottom Edging
Start from the working yarn and work along the bottom of the bonnet.
Row 1 (RS)
Ch 1, *dc2tog, sc in the next st; repeat from * to the end of the row.
(The stitch pattern may not work out evenly; you might need to use a dc instead of a dc2tog depending on how many stitches you end up with.) Turn.
Row 2 (WS)
Ch 1, place a sc in every dc2tog and a dc in every sc across the row, turn.
Row 3 (RS)
Ch 1, place a sc in every dc and a dc in every sc across the row.
Do not break yarn.

Front Edging
Turn the bonnet so you are now working along the front edge. When you dc2tog, you will be double crocheting two row ends together.
Row 1 (RS)
Ch 1, *dc2tog, sc in the end of the next row; repeat from * to the other side of the bonnet.
(The stitch pattern may not work out evenly; you might need to use a dc instead of a dc2tog depending on how many stitches you end up with.) Turn.
Row 2 (WS)
Ch 1, place a sc in every dc2tog and a dc in every sc across the row, turn.
Row 3 (RS)
Ch 1, place a sc in every dc and a dc in every sc across the row.
Do not break yarn.

Left Strap
Turn the bonnet so you are working into the first two stitches of the bottom edging (see photo).
Row 1 (RS)
Ch 1, sc into the next 2 sts, turn.
Repeat Row 1 until the strap measures 24, 25.5, 28, 30.5, 37 cm (9.5, 10, 11, 12, 14.5 in) or your desired length. Break yarn.
Right Strap
Join yarn to the 2nd last stitch of the bottom edging on the right-hand side of the bonnet (see photo). Work the strap in the same way as for the left strap. Break yarn.

Finishing
Weave in all ends.
Share your finished pictures with me:
- Instagram: @themoulehole

Absolutely beautiful! I can’t wait to catch up on my projects so I can make this!! It reminds me so much of the little flower girls on the Wizard of Oz <3
Happy Hooking!
Heather
Absolutely beautiful! I can’t wait to catch up on my projects so I can make this!! It reminds me so much of the little flower girls on the Wizard of Oz <3
Happy Hooking!
Heather