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The Magdalena Jacket: A Little History
Just over two years ago, I began the process of designing my first crochet pattern. I had never done it before and had no idea if it was even possible for me to figure out. It took me just over three months to write, grade the pattern and make “The Magdalena Jacket’. I made three of them and had my mom test my pattern because I did not even know that pattern testers existed!
Then, on March 10, 2019, I listed the pattern in my Etsy shop. I was so nervous about the response and if the jacket would work when other people made it. Later in the evening, I posted a picture of my daughter and her cousin wearing the jacket on Instagram and it went crazy!!!!! After a few days, the picture had been “liked” over 10 000 times and I had sold hundreds of copies. I honestly could not believe it. I will never forget that feeling. Now, 2 years on, I have decided to make this pattern available to you all for free here on my blog. Thank you for being such a support to me. Without you all, I would not be able to share my passion for crochet and continue doing what I do best, designing beautiful garments with super easy to follow patterns.
Buy the Ad Free, Colour Coordinated Pattern
Why should I buy the pattern you may ask? My patterns are colour coordinated by size and so easy to read! All stitch counts for each row are listed in the paid pattern. The pdf is printable and totally worth the money. You can purchase the ad free and colour coordinated pdf pattern on Etsy, Ravelry or Love Crafts.
Materials:
*5.00mm(U.S H/8) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
*Aran(Worsted weight) yarn. I used Hayfield Aran Bonus with 20% wool in the colour Stonehouse (671)- 400g balls. The colour choices are gorgeous and it is budget friendly since this project uses so much yarn. See chart below for approximately how much yarn you will need.
*2-5 buttons – 2cm/.75in
*tapestry needle
*4 stitch markers
Gauge
15 stitches/12 rows= 10cmX10cm (4X4 inch) square in half double crochet
Do you need to do a gauge swatch??? YES and here is why…Click the photo below to find out.
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
st or sts- stitch or stitches
ch- chain stitch
sk-skip
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
fpdc- front post double crochet
bpdc- back post double crochet
hdc2tog- half double crochet two stitches together
PSM- place stitch marker
RSM- remove stitch marker
Measurements & Yarn Requirements
| Size | Approximate Chest Circumfrence | Skirt Length | Sleeve length (measured from underarm) | Hood Length | Yarn (approx length in meters and yards) |
| 12-18mo | 48cm/19in | 27cm/11in | 20.5cm/8in | 19cm/7.5in | 850m/930yards |
| 1½-2 | 56cm/22in | 30cm/12in | 21.5cm/8.5in | 21cm/8.5in | 1100m/1200 yards |
| 3-4 | 64cm/25in | 32cm/12.5in | 26.5cm/10.5in | 24cm/9.5in | 1350m/1500 yards |
| 5-6 | 72cm/28in | 36cm/14in, | 29cm/11.5in | 27cm/10.5in | 1600m/1800 yards |
| 7-8 | 77cm/30in | 38cm/15in | 31.5cm/12.5 | 31cm/12in | 1950m/2200 yards |
| 9-10 | 82cm/32in | 40cm/16in | 34.5/13.5in | 34cm/13.5in | 2200m/2400 yards |
Sizes written as follows: 12-18 mo(1½-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10)
Yoke
Ch 53 (59, 65, 71, 71, 71)
Row 1
sc in the 2nd ch from hook, work a sc in each chain across.
52(58, 64, 70, 70, 70 sc)
Row 2 (Stitch Marker Set-up)
ch2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout)
hdc in the next 8(9,10,11,11,11) sts
hdc/ch1/hdc in the next st (see video tutorial below), PSM in the ch sp
hdc in the next 8 (9,10,11,11,11) sts
hdc/ch1/hdc in the next st, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in the next 16 (18,20,22,22,22) sts
hdc/ch1/hdc in the next st, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in the next 8 (9,10,11,11,11)sts
hdc/ch1/hdc in the next st, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in the next 8(9,10,11,11,11) sts
turn
TOTAL STITCHES:
60( 66, 72, 78, 78, 78) sts, including the ch 1 at each raglan increase point
Row 3
ch2
hdc in each st to the marker
RSM, hdc/ch1/hdc in the ch sp, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in each st to the marker
RSM, hdc/ch1/hdc in the ch sp, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in each st to the marker
RSM, hdc/ch1/hdc in the ch sp, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in each st to the marker
RSM, hdc/ch1/hdc in the ch sp, PSM in the ch sp
hdc in each st to the end of the row
turn
TOTAL STITCHES
68 (74, 80, 86, 86, 86 sts)
Repeat row 3 until you have completed a total of 9 (11,13,15,17,19) rows.
TOTAL STITCHES when the yoke is complete:
116(138,160,182,198,214)sts
Sleeve Separation
Sleeve Separation
ch2
hdc each st to the st marker
RSM, hdc in the ch1 space
ch2
skip the next 24 (29,34,39,43,47) sts
RSM, hdc in the ch1 space
hdc in each st to the marker
RSM, hdc in the ch1 space
ch2
skip the next 24 (29,34,39,43,47) sts
RSM, hdc in the ch1 space
hdc in each st to the end of th row
turn
72(84,96,108,116,124) sts, including ch2 under the arms
Body
Row 1
ch2, hdc in all stitches and chs across
Repeat Body Row 1
1(1, 2, 2, 3, 3) times (or to desired length, jacket is designed to have an empire waist.)
Skirt
Row 1
ch2, [work (1 hdc in the front loop, 1 hdc in the back loop, 1 hdc in the front loop) in the first hdc], [work (1 hdc in the back loop, 1 hdc in the front loop,1 hdc in the back loop) of the 2nd hdc, work (1 hdc in the front loop, 1 hdc in the back loop, 1 hdc in the front loop) in the next hdc] repeat from * across entire row
See video link below for instructions on how to do the ruffle row.
Row 2
ch2, work hdc in each hdc across, turn
Repeat Row 2 until desired length is reached or the skirt measures approx 27cm/11in( 30cm/12in, 32cm/12.5in, 36cm/14in, 38cm/15in, 40cm/16in)[measure from row 1 of the skirt]
Last Row
ch1, work a sc in each hdc to create an edge, break yarn
Sleeves
Sleeves
*Note* Sleeves are worked flat in rows back and forth and then seamed up. When deciding on sleeve length, keep in mind the edging measures approximately 5cm/2in.
Join yarn to the center bottom of the armhole
Row 1 (see picture above)
ch2, work 2 hdc [between ch and first of the armhole sts], work a hdc in the next 24(29,34,39,43,47) sts around the armhole, work 2 more hdc [between last armhole st and the ch2], turn
Row 2
ch2, hdc 2tog, hdc in the next 24(29,34,39,43,47) sts, hdc 2tog, turn
TOTAL STITCHES 26(31,36,41,45,49)
Row 3
ch2, hdc 2tog, hdc in the next 22(27,32,37,41,45) sts, hdc 2tog, turn
TOTAL STITCHES 24(29,34,39,43,47)
Row 4
ch2, hdc2tog, hdc in the next 20(25,30,35,39,43) sts, hdc2tog, turn
TOTAL STITCHES 22(27,32,37,41,45)
Row 5
ch2, hdc in each st across, turn
[22(27,32,37,41,45) sts]
Repeat Row 5 until sleeve measures approximately 15.5cm/6in (16.5cm/6.5in,21.5cm/8.5in, 24cm/9.5in,27cm/10in,30cm/11.5in) from underneath the arm or desired length. (REMEMBER the edging will be approx 5cm/2in), turn.
Sleeve edging
Row 1
ch2, dc2tog, dc in the next 18,23,28,33,37,41 sts, dc2tog, turn
PROCEED TO ROW 2 OF THE SIZE YOU ARE MAKING
Row 2, Sizes 12-18mo & 3-4
ch2, fpdc, bpdc repeat from* to the end of the row
Repeat Row 2, two more times.
Leave a long tail to seam up sleeve, break yarn.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Row 2, Sizes 1½-2, 5-6,7-8, 9-10
ch2, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc repeat from *to the end of the row
Row 3
ch2, bpdc, *fpdc, bpdc* repeat from *to the end of the row
Repeat Row 2 one more time.
Leave a long tail to seam up sleeve, break yarn.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Hood
Join yarn to the first stitch of the collar (into the remaining loop of the foundation chain)
Row 1
ch2, hdc into the first st, hdc in each st across the collar, turn
Row 2
ch2, hdc into each hdc across, turn
Row 3
repeat row 2 until hood measures approximately 19cm/7.5in( 21cm/8in, 24cm/9.5in, 27cm/10.5in, 31cm/12in,34cm/13.5in) or desired length. Leave a tail to sew up hood and break yarn. Sew the hood seam before you continue to the edging. Check out my video for how to do the Hood Seam if you need further instructions.
Edging
Join yarn to the bottom right of the jacket (as though you were wearing it)
Row 1
ch1
-work one sc per row up the right hand side of the jacket
-when you reach the first row of the hood, switch to dc, one dc at the end of each row of the hood
-switch back to sc when you reach the left side of the jacket, one sc per row down the left side of the jacket, turn
Row 2
-ch1, sc in each sc up the left side of the jacket
-fpdc at the first dc of the hood, bpdc in the next dc, fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st repeat from * until you finish the hood and reach the right had side of the jacket
Now you must decide how many buttons you would like to use and where to place them. Mark where you would like the buttons.
-sc in each sc down the front right side of the jacket except where you would like to place the buttons. At these points, ch2, sk 2 sts.
Row 3
-ch1, sc in each sc and in each ch up the right side of the jacket
-when you reach the hood, fpdc in each fpdc and bpdc in each bpdc.
-sc in each sc down the left front side, break yarn
Weave in all ends, seam sleeves and attach buttons.
Congratulations! You made it to the end. Enjoy!
